Showing posts with label Camera Tips. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Camera Tips. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 26, 2011


When you go to a concert or a stage production and see a large, blank backdrop behind the performers, you are looking at a cyclorama. Sometimes it is used to project a light show or video clips; sometimes it just creates a neutral backdrop for the performance. Whatever you may need a cyclorama for, you can make a simple, portable one quickly and fairly cheaply. You can also use a similar set-up for creating a green screen.
You’ll Need
  • 3/4 –inch PVC pipe
  • Eight ¾-inch PVC caps
  • Two ¾-inch PVC T-junctions
  • Two ¾-inch PVC X-junctions
  • PVC glue
  • Two ¾-inch PVC elbows
  • Sheet of white fabric
  • Sewing machine
  • Two Velcro conversion straps
  • Two ¾-inch PVC couplings
  • Gaffer’s tape and weight
Instruction
  1. Cut eight 2-foot lengths of PVC pipe and two 2-inch lengths. These pieces will make up the feet of the cyclorama.
  2. Attach a cap to the end of a 2-foot length. Repeat with three more pieces.
  3. Dry-fit the foot into a T- and X-junction. Insert the 2-inch length into the straight side of a T-junction and a 2-foot capped length into the other end. Insert this into the X-junction, and fill the remaining three slots with another 2-foot length. This forms one of the feet of your frame.
  4. Glue the pieces together. Repeat the steps to make a second foot.
  5. Measure a length of PVC pipe for the width and length of the cyclorama, and cut the pieces. Make these pieces as wide and as tall as you need the cyclorama to be. You will have three pieces: one for the top and two for the sides.
  6. Slide a coupling on a side piece. Repeat with the other coupling.
  7. Dry-fit the frame together. Insert the top section into two PVC elbows. Insert the two sides into those elbows, then into the upturned T-junctions on the two feet. This creates the frame for your cyclorama. Make sure it is the right size and shape for your needs. If it isn't, trim the piece as needed.
  8. Measure a piece of fabric so that it is precisely the height and width of the cyclorama. Add 1 inch to the width of the fabric screen and 1 foot to the height. Cut the piece of fabric to this size.
  9. Fold the top foot of the sheet down. Sew 1/2-inch from the left side of the sheet to create a pocket. Repeat on the other side of the sheet. This becomes the top of your screen.
  10. Flip the pocket inside out, and lay the sheet so that the pocket is facing up and at the top of your work area.
  11. Measure 8 inches from the bottom of the sheet on the left and right sides. Sew Velcro or other hook-and-loop straps to this side so that half of the strap hangs off the side of the screen.
  12. Slip the pocket over the top of the cyclorama frame. The fabric should be tight against the frame to hold the screen taut and hold the frame together without glue.
  13. Lift the left-side coupling up to about 9 inches, and hold it in place. Attach the screen to the frame with Velcro or other hook-and-loop strips so that it is taut, then let the coupling fall to the bottom. Mark this position on the frame. Repeat on the other side.
  14. Remove the screen.
  15. Glue the couplings into place on the frame.
  16. Take the frame apart and leave the glue to dry overnight.
  17. Reassemble the frame, slide the fabric back over the top and attach the bottom into place with Velcro or hook-and-loop strips underneath the two couplings. Use gaffer's tape and weights to hold the feet in place. Place weights over the bottom edge of the screen to hold it in place.

Monday, July 25, 2011


If a photographer doesn't have the money to buy a professional lighting kit, he can buy simple Craftsmen lights and a diffuser. Discover how to use a fire-proof type of nylon in photography lighting with help from a producer in this free video on photography lighting.

Instructions

    • 1
      Use the "Poor Man's Dolly." This is a well-known secret of the trade; if you can't afford a dolly track, then dig up an old wheelchair. A dolly track is essentially just a small set of train tracks upon which you can move a camera so the shot is smooth and controlled. A similar effect can be achieved simply by placing the cameraman into a wheelchair and having someone move them and control their direction. As long as your cameraman has a steady grip and can hold the camera still, the effect of using a wheelchair is almost the same as a dolly track, and is exponentially cheaper.
    • 2
      Subsitute for a steadicam. Another effect that is hard to duplicate inexpensively is the steadicam. But all you need is a box for a camera with a heavy counterweight to control the shaking. Use four small pieces of thin wood to form a box with no top or front. Drill a small hole in the bottom through which you thread a bolt that will keep the camera secure in the box. Attach a piece of a 2 x 4 board on the bottom of the box, and attach something heavy to the bottom of the 2x4 (a cinder block or a lead weight would do). This gives you the counterweight at the bottom to keep the camera from shaking, and the bolt will hold the camera in place when you're moving the steadicam back and forth.
    • 3
      Come up with a crane. It is very difficult to approximate a crane shot, because you have to be able to get your camera high up into the air and then back to the ground in an unbroken shot. The best way to do it is to a get solid, strong piece of wood that is about 20-feet long. On the far point at both ends, hang a piece of square wood, using four equal pieces of chain. When it is suspended, the wooden squares will hang evenly under the wood. Put this onto a sawhorse or another elevated piece to create a see-saw of sorts. Put your camera on one end, bolting it down by drilling a hole and threading a bolt into the threading on the bottom of the camera. On the other end, put heavy objects such as a cinder block. Using a rope to stabilize the side with the camera, you can allow the end with the camera to rise in the air because of the weight on the other side. You can go from ground level to the air, or vice versa. The higher you need to go, the more of the board you slide onto the side with the camera.
If you have a large studio or perhaps even a small studio space in your home, chances are you have asked the question, “how in the world am I going to build a cyclorama wall?” Check out this, ahem, inspiring video by the good people over at EyeHandy which outlines each and every step needed to make a solid and sturdy cyc wall for your studio or in this case dining room. I love one youtuber’s comment, “after a while i stopped being aroused and started being amazed!” Happy summer time tool project!